Mar 27

G4 ibook motherboard fault.

There is a problem with the logic board in the Macintosh G4 ibooks. It can appear after a year or more in some machines and the symptom is that after being on for a few minutes, the screen goes black (it looks blank, but the light has gone off) , the fan turns on, and the computer freezes. You might think it is a problem with the display but it’s actually a problem with one of the chips on the main motherboard. This article describes the problem and how to repair it.

What models are affected?

I conducted a survey (thanks to over 300 readers who participated!) to see which model g4 ibook had the problem.  The results are here and it appears that every  iBook model can develop the blank display problem.

Thankfully the Aluminium power books don’t have the problem. In fact the powerbooks from this era are a great design, the 15 inch Aluminium G4 powerbook is one of my all time favourite macs – I still have one.

The original 2003 ibook G4’s (800/933/1Ghz) have the fault.

The “Early 2004” (1Ghz) models up until Oct 2004 have the same motherboard.

The 60G (1.2Ghz) “Early 2004” model and all the “Late 2004” model ibooks (1.2Ghz/1.33Ghz) and Mid 2005 (1.33 and 1.42Ghz) have  different logic board (built in airport extreme)-  but they still have the fault – even models with the new logic boards are affected!

What is the fault?

One of the chips heats up and cools down each time the computer is turned on and off, so that eventually a small stress crack appears on one of the pins. When the computer heats up and parts expand, the crack opens up and the power does not get through. This means the display goes blank and the computer freezes. If you press the plastic case of the ibook in just the right place, it can put enough pressure on the chip so that the pin makes contact and the computer will power up again. In fact, here’s a crude DIY repair method involving a shim where you open the laptop and put a piece of rubber on top of the chip to press it down:



Here is another DIY solution is that involves clamping a g-clamp onto your iBook – I would not recommend this one it will place all sorts of physical stresses on the iBook internals!



Here is a photo of the fault developing. (from here: ENGF959-orig). You can see the thin black line running below the lead which is a crack in the solder.

Picture 1.jpg
I rang Apple and they don’t acknowledge that the problem exists. They have officially ‘never heard of it’.

The repair!

You need a fine tipped soldering iron to heat up the top few pins of the chip one by one and resolder them to the logic board. Press the chip down while you apply a very clean and fine soldering iron tip to each pin.

Don’t attempt this one unless you have had some soldering experience – or you are ready to say goodbye to your G4 ibook if something goes wrong!
Here are some pictures:

Computer with bottom case off

The G4 ibook with the bottom case off. The offending chip is circled.

ibook with bottom case off

Closeup of chip

Here is a closeup of where I have soldered the legs of the chip. You can see the base of the top pins are shinier and a little fatter from the new soldering. I soldered the top 3 or 4 pins on each side, but it’s only the top 2 pins that the fault occurs with as they are the main power pins. I applied a little more solder to the joint as well, that’s why it looks a bit lumpy.

TYou don’t need to apply any new solder to the chip. Just apple some solder to your soldering iron to clean it. Then wipe the iron clean on a rag. Then gently touch the iron to the legs of the chip for about 3 seconds each leg to melt the solder down onto the joints again.

Here is a close-up of the chip you are soldering.  Solder the end with the little circle on it. Solder the top 2 legs on each side.




As pointed out in the discussions below, once your ibook is fixed,  or if your G4 iBook has not yet developed the fault, you might want to take out $10 worth of insurance by buying this little app.

It turns your fans on earlier and lowers the internal temp of you ibook. You can set the temperature lower so that your fan turns on a little sooner to keep the iBook cooler.

If you repair your iBook be sure go make a post below. So far there have been lots of successes and no failures at all!

153 Responses to “How to fix a broken G4 iBook logic board problem”

  1. paul says:

    My ibook is the late 2004 model… no apparent problems.

    Am I safe?

  2. Wayne says:

    Looks like no-one is safe!

  3. gonzalo says:

    hi ,. my ibook has the same problem but i think the model of the motherboard is not the same like hte picture you put .

    i have the ibook g4 1.33 with combo drive ,…. i not have the airport on the same place of memory slots.

    can you help me telling me the airport chip model name ?

    thanks ,.

  4. Manuela Tschuemperlin says:

    I have an iBook G4 1.42Ghz (2005). I have to say I have exactly that problem. I pushed down the left side besides the trackpad with my hand and it turned on. Before I couldnt, and I always had the grey screen with the Kernel Panic message on it.. So I guess not only early iBooks have that problem.. so nobody who has an iBook is safe.. sorry to say that guys but it just happened to me…

  5. Will says:

    I got my 14″ G4 ibook 1.07 ghz on ebay. Quite soon after I got it the ibook started to freeze with coloured horizonal lines slowly taking over the screen. This began to happen sooner and sooner after starting up the ibook. If I clamped it to the left of the trackpad it ran ok.
    This article gave me courage so I removed the bottom case and heat shield (following the brilliant instructions) and found a couple of rubber pads on the graphic chip (clearly, it had had the easy repair already).
    I have unsteady hands but fools rush in so they say, so I bought a 25w Antex soldering iron and a 2.5mm tip. I primed the tip with a spot of solder to get some flux on it and held the tip against the legs of the chip for 2 and a bit secs, attacking only the top3 on each side. The soldering iron did about 2 at a time as they are tiny.
    The ibook has run perfectly all day, playing movies etc. I’ll keep you posted.
    Thanks for everything.

  6. wayne says:

    You’re a legend Will, good on you! Yes, be sure to keep us updated on how it goes. Mine is still alive and kicking 2 months on.

  7. Dan D says:

    I have one from work apple diagnosed with “Faulty board” Same deal. Push to the Left of the track pad she fires up. Its a 1.33 ghz w airport card and combo drive i think. Not sure of the year. I am going to pull the case off tonight and see if I can see a bad solder joint at the places you mentioned on that IC. If I see some I will hit it with a soldering iron and I will let you know how it goes.

  8. wayne says:

    If you are soldering it, you don’t really need to apply solder to the joint. Like Will said, you just put some solder on the iron to clean it, but even then, make sure you blow or shake off the excess. The worst thing is if you actually apply some solder to the chip, and the two leads short out. This happened to me and it was quite hard to get it out again.

  9. claudio says:

    I have had a iBOOK G4 for 4 years and for the last couple of days it has been freezing 5 mins into starting up,i dont get a black screen but i cant move the mouse and if i am playing music that will also freeze on the same point,what do you thing the problem is? my iBOOK will always start up but sometimes i can see the apple symbol but will then not load my desktop,if i leave it over night the problem seems to go away,but again 5-10 minutes in and it stops working,is the problem related to the chip spoken off already,i need some help.Thanx

  10. DanD says:

    I meant to get back to you guys but forgot the url. Bookmarked now. I let my iron get uber hot and just lightly tinned the tip and applied to iron for about 10 seconds if that long to the two pins you identified. I am happy to say its running nicely daily since and I just put osx10.5 on it. Apple wanted 800 for a new logic board installed. Thanks much for your help the only thing I would suggest is linking to the ifixit chassis removal page for removing the chassis.

    I gotta say it was a great help too i think its awesome they put manauls accesable like that.

    PS apple are a bunch of nasty names and they should pay for these motherboard replacements for their crap engineering or bad QA on the solder joints.

  11. art says:

    to those who have a 1.33ghz or 1.42ghz ibook g4:

    Your problems may not be related to the graphics card. A number of users seem to be having problems related to the AirPort Extreme module that will either boot the laptop into Open Firmware and stop it from booting into osx with the blinking system folder error, or will kernel panic.

    Take it apart and try removing the AirPort Extreme module (it’s a small grey coloured thing held in by 3 screws and has two wires going to it. just left of where the Radeon chip is, at the bottom end of the heatsink) and see if it starts.

  12. HUMAYU says:


  13. Many thanks for this fix. Despite the precedent set in Denmark, Apple Customer Relations will not admit to this basic design fault and offer no support other than the fully unacceptable cost of a logic board replacement as an out of warranty repair. Had it not been for this forum I would probably have had to buy what is now, for me, another suspect Apple laptop product. As it is the machine now works perfectly – indeed the wake up from sleep function now works which it had not done since the warrantied logic board replacement 2 years ago.
    Thanks again.

  14. I have a M9165LL/A which behaves somewhat similarly. From a cool state, it boots and operates normally, but freezes very roughly 10 minutes later (except as described below). Then the only option is to hold the power button to turn it off. But there’s no display malfunction – although static, the display appears normal. I notice that the fan runs very briefly when a boot is initiated, but otherwise it doesn’t seem to run, even though it’s hot in my lab, and the processor heat sink and heat pipe get hot. That seems odd to me – if the fan’s functional as indicated by a power up exercise, it seems to me like it should operate later. For all I know it’s directed to turn on, and something about that event causes the system to freeze. Or perhaps some malfunction prevents it from operating (even though the fan is clearly good), and the system freezes because the processor exceeds an internal temperature limit. But I’m just speculating…

    The IC described on this page doesn’t seem to be at fault in my case. I gently pried each of the four legs on the right side (toward the optical drive) with a sewing needle, which in my experience illustrates whether a surface mount IC solder bond is secure (the leg will rise a little if the bond is faulty), and they all seemed sound. However, I resoldered the two right side legs on both sides of the IC anyway to be sure (and forestall a future problem). But the system’s symptoms remain as before.

    That particular IC seems distant from the display, but I take your word that it’s related to display functionality. But I don’t observe any display anomalies, so the combined evidence seems to indicate that in my case some other presumably temperature related intermittent flaw is involved. But it’s sure not clear to me what it could be.

    When I initially started troubleshooting, I had no idea that there was a pervasive iBook problem, so I did the usual things to try to narrow the search down, including running memtest in single user mode. Under that test, the system never froze – it ran for about fours, glitch free, at which point I concluded that the ram was good and shut the system down in the normal manner. I also tried reinstalling OS 10.5 many times, normally with line power of course, but the system froze about 10 minutes into each installation – except when I did so with the power line disconnected, running from just the battery, and allowed the screen to go dark for energy conservation. But when I moved the mouse to activate the screen to check progress, the system immediately froze. As before, I don’t think the fan ever ran (though I’m not certain whether it did in either case, and especially during the memtest run – I wasn’t paying sufficient attention to the fan then).

    I suppose all this may point to temperature rise related events – maybe memtest doesn’t exercise the processor or display drivers except trivially, and battery only operation energy conservation functions reduce the temperature rise too – I don’t know.

    Sorry to babble. Bottom line (so far): Does anyone know of any other component bonds (or components themselves) that commonly fail, or have any other clues to suggest? And does Apple still provide any relief for this problem – is a board swap or some other free or low cost repair available from Apple at this time?

    Thanks tons for this page and the fault description – even though I’m still fighting the battle, this page has helped enormously!

    Regards, Bruce

  15. Steve says:

    Hi Folks…

    I have an 1,33 12″ iBook G4 (Mid 2005) which was produced in April 2006…

    So do you guys think my iBook could be affected?

    Greetings from Switzerland, Steve

  16. wayne says:

    Well Steve, if it’s working it’s not, at the moment! If it’s not working then it probably is! So keep using it and hope for the best!


  17. sam says:

    I have a 2004 Ibook 1.33 which had a new motherboard under warrantee. A year later, after Applecare expired, the book would not start and has sat around on a shelf for the last year. I just followed Corey Arnold’s advice above. I used a sandwich of adhesive putty and fine cut cable ties to compress the chip. I am staggered that it works and it was so easy to fix. I have had 24 hours trouble free use now !! Shame on Apple for denying they have a problem ! I’m back into PC’s now because of it !

  18. mike says:

    hi …
    i have a 2004 ibook g4 (800mhz) wont boot….i get a black screen after the chime just when i press the power button…. and NO fan sound
    sometimes it starts when i press de touchpad …….

    my symptoms are diffrent than the ones described on the article but it sounds like the same problem for me!
    im i right?? will this fix work for me???

  19. admin says:

    Well you could take it to an Apple Centre and see what they say. Or you could take the back of, and press down the chips with your fingers and see if it works. Does the machine work if you clamp it together just to the left of the trackpad?

  20. mike says:

    at the apple centre they told me the ibook is dead and is out of warranty….

    it works if i press it near the touch pad…buy it freezes if i stop pressing the ibook

    but im getting a start chime and no fan sound at all..and a black screen….
    the symptoms described on the article are black srcreen and a fan sound

    for me is the same problem than the article one but i just want to make shure it is…..

  21. admin says:

    >it works if i press it near the touch pad…buy it freezes if i stop pressing the ibook

    That sounds like it to me! Your options are to stick something in there to hold the chip down, or try to solder it. But be warned – it may make things worse if you mess up!

  22. MONICA says:

    Hi, it all makes sense now – I have an I-MAC G5 that I bought 3years ago and it has the same problems, freezes, kernel message appears, black screen and sleep button didn’t work for ages…
    Apple shop will charge me £400 for replacing the motherboard!
    My advise is, try to get it fixed elsewhere… shame I didn’t know about the forum before…!

  23. ALBERTO says:

    My Ibook G4 has the same problem. Tried to solder like you mention over here,started it up and some light came up of the screen.
    But nothing else.
    So I started all over again , but now nothing happends anymore.

    If I place my finger on the chip it feels VERY HOT.
    So I shut it down before anything got damage. (or am I to late?)

    Can you tell meif he chip becoming hot as to do whit the fact that the soldering is not good, or does it mean that I did fried it up?

  24. Al says:

    Agreed, this man is twice the genius than any schmuck you’ll find at an Apple bar.

  25. alvaro says:

    Hi there, thanks to your post I think i’ve saved 700 bucks. My sister’s ibook went flashing a week ago. I decided to send it to Apple Autorized Service but they told me it was the Logic Board ! I read this article and dowloaded a pdf from ifixit and insert two layers of 3M doble sided tape. I discovered also that the aluminium cast internal frame was broken near the battery compartment.
    Here you can see the chip.
    And the broken frame.
    Now the ibook is working fine, hope it will last :]

  26. JayLovesiBook says:

    Had identical problems with my iBook G4 1.07 Ghz. After lots of despair and many many late nights of troubleshooting/online searching, I found people with a problem like mine.

    Tried pressing and padding, they didn’t work on my machine. Tried an impatient solder job…and I messed it up. I shorted the chip out and wrecked it.

    Luckily, it is a standard chip. I ordered a new one from some company online, plus this time I got the proper soldering equipment. Cost me about 30 bucks altogether.

    Soldered the new chip on. She’s been working fine for a year now.

    Took a video of it, but its pretty crappy so I’ll spare you.

    But just remember: IT CAN BE DONE!

  27. JayLovesiBook says:

    ADD TO ABOVE POST: My aluminum frame was also cracked near the battery compartment. (In its lifetime it had taken several drops onto the concrete).

  28. Michael says:

    Hi there, with your HowTo, i was able to repair my beloved iBook. The complete repair (including the “surgery”) took about 90 minutes, i was VERY carefull and i think you can manage to repair the book within 30 minutes as well.
    anyway. my baby is running perfect since, and i’m a happy man.


  29. HagenFL says:

    Hi everyone. I did it four times (four different iBooks) right now – but it helped only once… Poor thing!
    But I got a question to “JayLovesiBook”: where did you bought this “standard chip”? I tried google over and over to find someone who sells ati bga/ic or whatever you like to name it. Found nothing. So could you please post the name of the reseller or just the search-string for google. I even don’t know what to look for. I made a short-circuit to my chip.

  30. JonS says:

    I’ve had my Ibook G4 (late 2004 1.2Ghz) repaired three times by apple with this problem. This last time they refused to fix it because the laptop was out of warranty and the prior repair was four days beyond its 90-day warranty. The store person told me Apple was repairing them with defective motherboards and that the fix would not last. I will try this one. Thanks!!

  31. I fixed mine by bending the pins on the chip to the motherboard with a spudger. It’ been a month and still going strong.

  32. Dan D says:

    Well my ibook worked great for the last 5 months then the hard drive died. I ripped it a part put in a new 7200 rpm drive. That sped it up nicely. I forgot to attach the speaker cable. Pulled her apart and attached ran great for two weeks. My wife is using it the other day starts tap tapping on the palm rest. Up pops the old chip issue again. I just pulled her apart again and put some pressure on the chip. Up she went. So I am going to try and tin the leads again. Ill let u know how I make out. I don’t need the Ifixit manual anymore because now I know it off the back of my hand. You think attempting the solder job is a pain…. Try replacing the hard drive in one of these sobs. Both the upper and lower chassis and metal shield have to come off! It took 5 times the time as fixing the video chip ( or whatever IC that is)….

  33. Adam says:

    You say that when you apply pressure you rcomputer works again. I have fixed my computer with rubber pieces and it worked! However after awhile the screen goes blank or if I move the computer around too much it goes blank. I try applying pressure to the problem spot to no avail. My only option at this point is to reboot the computer. Any tips?

  34. Mark says:

    Check out Hammerhead Technologies (—they did the required re-soldering for $75, shipping extra.

  35. John says:

    I was experiencing the same video/freezing problem with my iBook, a late-2004 model (1.2GHz). I followed you guide and applied the clean tip of a 30-watt pencil-styled soldering gun to the top 2 pins of the chip (I didn’t add any additional solder). The iBook seems to work fine now. Thanks!

  36. Civenx says:

    I just put a peace of tinfoil over the chip and heated it up with a lighter, then I used a soldering iron and heated the pins up with no additional solder a now it seems to work fine thanks for the help!

  37. hj says:

    Almost 2 years ago I had the same experience with my iBook 12” bought in 2005. I fixed it. It has been working perfectly so far.

    What u need to do :
    1 – open the mac and identify the chip.
    2 – keep a finger pressed on the chip and switch on the mac.
    3 – if it works – then send the motherboard (in an antistatic plastic envelope) to a soldering place where they do this kind of work ( I found one in u.s. – look on ebay – quite cheap )
    4 – when the motherboard is back reassemble and enjoy.

  38. Rob says:

    Having fixed my ibook by re-soldering and then having it fail again almost immediately, I started to do a bit of proper investigation and research. Close examination of the photos in the Danish investigation report showed that pins 1 and 28 were lifting off the board, rather than shearing. Why should that be when the others stay fixed? The report also stated that the cause of failure was power-cycling (lots of heating up and cooling down) That got me thinking about what happens when a logic board heats up and cools down – I think I’ve finally worked it out. When the ibook powers up and is running at operating temperature, the board (being copper-clad fibre-board) expands. When the ibook is off, it cools down and contracts. Not a problem – as long as the board has room to expand. Close examination of my ibook revealed that the screws which mount the board to the ally frame were secured tightly – preventing any expansion of the board. The board would still expand, but instead of expanding outwards, it would be forced to bow. Therefore, lots of power cycling would be the same as taking a logic board and waggling it about – no wonder pins are breaking contact with the pads! So I re-soldered pins 1 and 28 again and this time loosened the board mounting screws so that they were firm but not tight. Several power cycles later – still good. If this really was the root cause of the faults, how many thousands of boards were replaced, only to fail again because the techies tightened the mounting screws down again – just like before!
    While you’re in there – it’s always worth a try!

  39. wayne says:

    Good work Rob!

  40. Rosli says:

    Hi guys, I have the same problem with my 14″ G4. I tried resoldering it, but I messed it up. I need to order the ISL6225 but I can’t get it here in Singapore. Could anyone help me buy it from there ? I will arrange for payment. Any kind soul to help ? This is my email


  41. Simon says:

    There is a company that specifically deals with the pin 28/1 issue, as well as 3 other G4 iBook logic board faults.. They wouldn’t reveal the other 3.. I’m guessing one of them is the video chip under the heat sink..

    Anyways the company is superior reball and rework.. shoot them an email
    the guy there is named Dale.. the price for repairing either the G3 or G4 video Issues is $50USD.. you remove the logic board and mail it in.. the repair, test and mail it back.. the whole process takes about 3 weeks when you take mailing into account.. the cool thing is if your board is completely kapaut.. there is no charge to you, and they mail you back your broken board as proof..

    I send in about 4 at a time.. only one has come back unusable

    There is another company in Arazona.. the name escapes me.. but they only reflow the soldier.. the company above reballs the connection which makes it ‘as new’

    Also if you try to soldier the pin 28 and 1 issue.. and it isn’t fixed.. chances are it’s something else and you should stop and mail the board to the guys above

    Good luck

  42. hola. hi, i have a same problem, i will try repair. thanks for your information.


  43. Sammie says:

    My trusty G4 iBook 1.2 just keeled over (black screen with fan buzzing) after all these years.

    When I spoke with one Apple Certified tech, he denied that there was ever a graphic chip/logic board problem. When I explained that the same thing happened to my G3 iBook (within the recall period) and Apple replaced its logic board for free, he still denied the problem! All he wanted me to do was purchase a new MacBook, pay to have my hard drive removed, and then toss my G4 into the garbage heap.

    I thnk I’ll try the solder or shim trick. What do I have to lose? Thanks guys for the tips!!

  44. Jacek says:

    Hi everyone!

    First: Thanks a lot for the information, also everone for posting their experience and additional info. My iBook (1.2GHz) died on me yesterday, with the symptoms described above (black screen, fan noise, no chime sound). I applied the fix today afternoon and got it to boot again. I also loosend the screws holding the logic board as suggested by Rob. Looks good so far.


  45. Yigit Z. Helvaci says:

    First of all thanks for all the info mentioned abowe. I have the same problem with my ibook g4. It freezes half was in the middle, sometimes when the osx is working and sometimes the ibook doesn’t even start -i just have a blue screen.
    The service told me that it’s the logic board and needs replacement. Tonight i checked the website and wanted to try, but the idiot in the Apple service forgot to put in my hard drive in the computer after checking it in the service.
    So, thinking that apple doesn’t acknowledge the problem and the authorized services can’t even remember putting back the parts on the computer, it’s worth a try.
    will post the news here..

  46. Jacek says:

    Hi again!

    Too bad, the symptoms appear again. It runs most of the time but it can crash anytime. I looked up the ISL6225 Datasheet on google and – as far as my understanding goes – is supplying the power to the DDR-Memory which could be the reason why 3rd-party RAM and removing the additional RAM may affect the symptoms. (Link:
    Another thing i thought was interessting is the fact that Intersil is not anymore selling/producing the ISL6225 but the newer yet compatible ISL6227 or ISL6229. I wonder if it would by possible to replace the 6225 with one of the newer chips.

    Greetings from Hamburg,

  47. Beverly Hilliard says:

    I just lost use of my ibook 800. My symptoms are a bit different, and being new to actually trying to fix or solder
    I wonder if someone recognizes the following symptoms.
    I noticed for several months that the underside of my
    ibook was heating up quite a bit, and sometimes quite quickly, so the pattern was not always the same. Then
    I noticed that if I turned it off, there were problems getting it to boot up, and I had to hit a few of the major keys to wake it up, so for a while I just let it sleep. Yesterday, I was running Itunes and it simply stopped
    running and the screen went dark. Unable to get any response from the on off key and any alt/cont/del wasn’t helping either. The charging light was on, and
    the battery and charger seem ok. There were several off the cuff guesses here in california, but I wonder if anyone could give me advice or some idea as to what has failed. Was it the MB, logic board, HD, or???

  48. I have a g4 ibook 1ghz 256mb had it checked out and they said motherboard and lcd bad… at power on the fan would run high fan, and motherboard wouldnt come on at all no screen, tried clamping down with fingers left side of track pad and to my surprise it started and ran a whole day

    had a soldering tip that hit like 2 of the chips like inst.. did like 10 sec on top 3 on ea side, then did it maybe once again on ea for 5 sec.. on 30 watt setting, 15watt would have worked but tried hotter and just heated till chip felt semi hot… it has worked flawlessly since


  49. CJ says:

    Hey, I’ve had my iBook G4 since 2004 for uni 2 years ago it started having the symptons everyone is speaking about. Took it to the Apple store in London twice and both times I got told its the logic board it would cost around £600 to repair and I should buy a new one. Being a broke graduate I resided myself to using a cheap and dodgy PC until I could afford a replacement.

    Fast foward to 2009 started a cool job and was given a MacBook by my boss (happy days) just out of curiosity I decided to do a target disk mode to try and salvage a few old files at first it didnt work but once i dug around on a few forums low and behold i stumble on this. Squeezed the left side and my G4 springs into life. I’m no solder wizard so i’m takin this link to a mac repair shop round the corner from me to see if they can fix it! It looks like a 15 min job and it’ll prob cost me £30 but well worth it if it means getting my old files back!

    Thanks Everyone!!

  50. Ishe says:

    Guys,help pliz.I have a g4 ibook.the computer is running but the lcd is dark.Could it be the same chip problem?

  51. Sancho says:

    Well, another success story. . .
    My iBook shut off two night ago. I was soooo pissed, dismayed, and hopeless until I happened to stumble upon this site when I google-searched “iBook g4 broken won’t start screen.”
    So, after reading through all of the posts I decided to give it a try. . . .
    First, I tested it to make sure that when I clamped just left of the touchpad it started up-which it did.
    I’m in Bangkok, so it’s hard for me to mail it to the US-based companies that fixed it. But fortunately, I found a friendly Thai computer expert who happened to have a soldering iron.
    I took the computer apart (which was not as easy or quick as I expected) and then showed him the chip location (which I found from the website) and his soldered it back in place.
    It’s worked all last night and this morning and I’m hopeful that it’ll keep on pluggin away.
    Thank you so much to whoever figured this out and posted it on the web. Can’t imagine how much money and hassle you saved all of us!!!

  52. Gordon says:

    Rob, like others have fixed their iBook by soldering the chip and wondered why it fails again. This chip runs too hot around the top end. It’s the chip expansion that breaks the solder at pins1 & 28. The only answer to that is a heatsink. I soldered the pins and check it works without having to press on the chip. I cut a square of heat resistant plastic with a hole cut out for the top of the chip. I then cut a 1mm thick aluminum strip to sit over the chip, running in the direction of the cable. You can work out the dimension by the measuring the space up to the larger components. I used heatsink paste on top of the chip and a strip of rubber on top of the cable so that the case keeps pressure on the heatsink. The plastic protects the components below from shorting out on the heatsink.

  53. jason keedy says:

    WOW! I was about get a new computer (after potentially spending $500 for a new motherboard). Thanks so much for the insight….I clamped down to the left of the mouse pad and voila!

    thank you thank you thank you!

  54. iBookist says:

    First, sorry about my english.

    I have two iBooks and I bought both as broken. One is 14′ 1.42 Ghz (2005) model and the second is 12′ 1.33GHz (2005 as well).

    I have managed to fix 1.42Ghz model by applying some layers of paper between the airport card and the metal clip that holds it in place. After that is has worked like charm.

    However, the 1.33Ghz model has probably more serious problems. I think it has fault on a chip on the board. It starts up normally but it is highly unstable, I have even managed to resintall OS X 10.4 on the machine and surf on the internet via Airport, but the machine suddenly give kernel panics and messes the whole disk system. Reinstallation does not always work, installer can hang on various steps. I also noticed, like another poster did, that the fan is not running even though the processor runs hot, when I reset PMU the fans spins at full speed like it’s supposed to, but it does not spin at all in normal use.

    I tried to run Ubuntu 9.04 PowerPC -edition as live-cd, but the OS hang and last message was complain something about GPU, radeonfb: invalid ROM contents or something.

    I guess the problem is in RAM, either the GPU’s or system, or the chip which control supply voltage for one or both RAM-types.

  55. Glyn says:

    My ibook G4 went down 2 months ago, with theses exact symptoms! I was using the computer when I had a strip of graphics running horizontally through the middle of the screen suddenly begin to fade and pixelate, followed by the black screen! I had to take the battery out to switch it off! I restarted it and it worked fine for about another 5 minutes when the whole of the screen began to pixelate and fade followed by a black screen! After removing the battery and restarting all I got was the fan switching on and each time had to remove the battery to switch off! I asked 3 independent comp technicians who each said it sounded like the logic board was stuffed! All apple retailers wanted $50 to do a diagnostic and I was reluctant to waste the money if indeed it was stuffed! I consequently bought a brand new apple a few weeks ago and last week decided to bite the bullet and pay for the diagnostic, so as not to throw away a possibly repairable laptop. The diagnostic came back as expected…a stuffed logic board and a cost to replace of $750. One good thing was that the technician told me of an option that he had tried of taking out the logic board and holding a heat gun over a specific chip as this chip was prone to having its solder joints cracking. (Apparently the heat gun must reform the solder joints but can bugger other electroncs up if not careful) He also told me to check online for ibook fixit sites! After reviewing this site and some of the messages left, I decided to try putting pressure on the computer either side of the trackpad, whilst switching it on!…..VOILA…. it worked!!!! As soon as I took the pressure off it suffered the same problem of graphics fade within a minute! I tried it again without pressure and sure enough just got the fan revving away ….. with the pressure it switches on no problem!! I will now look into the possible fixes mentioned on here and will most likely try to solder the suspect joints! But what I am angry about is that this seems to be a known problem, and if its known by the users, then its certainly known by apple, yet their answer was to offer me the choice of a $750 repair or their best advice of buying a new computer (which unfortunately I’d already suckered for).
    I’ll let you know how the fix goes!

  56. Col says:

    I tried the pressure pad thing first but it didnt work. I didnt want to over flex the motherboard so with a sharp tipped soldering iron and a magnifying glass I re-heated the pins on the chip…..seems to have done the trick as I am now posting this on my ibook G4 2004 model.

  57. john says:

    Well, my soldered-on AP extreme (iBookG4, last 12″ 1.33GHz model made)
    needs a press to operate – anyone know how to ID the APx chip (card?) or where it is? It’s definitely not under the kybd near the RAM. Thanks much…

  58. Andre says:

    Seems like I to have the issue with black screen. I did take my iBook G4 apart but at the time did not know about the crack on the mother board. I am going to try this fix. If it works I can only say thank U so much for the information.

  59. Phillip says:

    I have a iBook G4, I think it’s 10-12″ and I think the video card went out and the battery is drained. How much do you think it will cost to fix the video card and get a charger???

  60. Matthew says:

    My symptoms showed up when I swapped in a larger hard drive.
    After identifying the chip, I pulled out an old soldering iron and sharpened the tip needle sharp. I then heated each pin twice to reflow the solder.
    I’m a little shocked – haven’t done any soldering on electronics in years – but it was the problem and it was fixed by the resoldering.
    Thanks for the valuable information.

  61. Phil says:


    My brother gave me an old iBook G4, saying it had motherboard problems, but I am able to start it up in firewire target mode. Just now, I found your web site, and pressed down on the left side, and it started up! when I let go, it froze, and since then I am not able to do it again, on start up, I see the Apple, and the spinning disk, but then it freezes … I am going to read more and then see what I can do.


    Phil in Costa Rica

  62. robert says:

    My iBook G4 1.42Ghz running OS X 10.4.11 Tiger purchased new in August 2005 was fine up until May 2009, started experiencing problems with screen going black, battery not charging and frequent crashes. I replaced the Battery with a new one from Apple at a cost of $129 and got another 4 months out of the laptop before problems again resumed, frequent crashing and erratic battery charging. When system prefs was opened and looking at power management the sliders were moving back and forth as the screen would flutter and dim until finally crashing. Now after being pluged in to charger for over a week still no charge on the brand new battery, my iBook occasionally will start to boot up when pressing power but soon crash usually before the desktop screen becomes visible, guessing it’s starting up on just enough battery left but crashing because no actual charge on battery. I have read much about the logic board being the problem but I have a thought that it may be a problem with a battery management script enclosed within updates to the OS from Apple. I have seen aftermarket “external” battery chargers on eBay for the iBook battery and am confident that if I purchase one of these I could charge the battery so the laptop would at least turn on and be useable but still no idea why it wount charge past 50% before going dead and not recharging with original charger. Is Apple sneakily trying to “kill” off it’s older hardware in hopes of selling new? I really don’t know just that the way the iBook acts seems very odd and I’m trying to use some human logic in an attempt to diagnose and hopefully repair for continued use.

  63. Ger says:

    Brilliant, fixed my wife’s iBook G4 by re-soldering pins 1 and 28. I has used the shim solution for a while but it didn’t last. Fingers crossed for now.

    I have a second iBook G4 that freezes after 10 mins or so from cold. When I reboot a few times it doesn’t make it past the ‘blue screen’ freeze. Do you think the solution I tried on the other iBook would work on this or is it a differnt chip problem altogether.

    Thanks in advance for your response and thanks loads for taking the time to post this info which has helped so many, including me. :-)

  64. Frank says:

    Another successful rescue of an iBook G4. I had tried the spacer solution, but it worked erratically. After reading the stories above, I decided that all of the messing around with electronics I’d done as a teenager was enough soldering experience to give this fix a shot. I filed down a soldering tip to a narrow point, coated it with some solder, touched it to the #1 pin for no more than 2 seconds, and presto, a working iBook once again. Thanks to everyone here for sharing their experience.

  65. My trusty iBook G4 is under my fingers as I type this message. It serves me very well as my one and only traveling computer, which these days means it serves me over 95% of the time. It’s a terrific laptop. If…

    All of the following is just my personal opinion: I admire Apple, and own a bunch of Apple stock. But it is not a perfect company. And they demonstrated that with their remarkably crass and destruction decision to kill the installed base of iBook G4s, with conscious intent. A decision they continue to support. It was and is nothing less than a criminal act, I’m very sorry to say, and they’re rather lucky they haven’t had to pay too badly for it.

    iBook G4s die because Apple elected to kill them rather than allow their fans to make noise. They knew all the iBook G4s would succumb quite early in their lives due to very high internal temperatures. And those temperatures were quite literally trivially easy to manage properly. But they faced a problem: The fan is noisy. They didn’t want waves of fan noise complaints, or to be known as a company that made a laptop with a noisy fan. Maybe they wanted a longer battery life specification too, who knows.

    So they elected to set the internal temperatures so high that the fan would almost never run, even though they were well aware that all the iBook G4s would die early in their service lives because of that decision. And that’s what they did. It was a conscious decision. It cost many people the price of their iBook G4s. Any in many cases their data too, if they didn’t back up regularly. And they continue to support that decision today – the latest Mac OS still sets the iBook G4 internal temperature so high that the fan will almost never engage, so the laptop literally cooks itself to death.

    Sooooo. You can fix your iBook G4. But you must also purchase and install G4FanControl, by Andrea Fabrizi, at It’s about $8 last I looked. It’s trivial to install, and to use. Set your three internal temperatures to 40, 39, and 42 °C respectively. In my opinion. You can set them anywhere you want. You could even set them rather high to minimize your fan noise, as Apple did, in which case your repaired iBook G4 will die quickly again. I strongly recommend that you set them to 40, 39, and 42 °C respectively. As Apple should have (and still could, and absolutely should, with an absolutely trivial Mac OS 10 correction).

    You must also repair whatever internal hardware died due to the blast furnace temperatures Apple set for the iBook G4. Any of a number of things could have failed. But the power converter IC’s solder joints seem to generally succumb first, followed by ball grid array solder joints and the hard drive.

    If the hard drive is dead, it’s a goner, so replace it. Here’s a page which illustrates how to disassemble the iBook G4 so you can perform internal repairs. It focuses on hard drive replacement, but access to the hard drive will of course also provide access to circuit board components such as the especially vulnerable power converter IC:

    Even if the solder joints on the power converter IC aren’t dead yet, they are almost certainly compromised. So resolder them.

    I use the wonderful 331 type organic flux based solder for the re-soldering job, plus lots of extra organic flux brushed into the work. Then I thoroughly wash the circuit board when all my work is complete. The Kester 331 type organic flux is highly conductive and corrosive, and must be completely washed away. Fortunately, it’s also fully water soluble. And it’s the only flux that makes true precision soldering work possible.

    I scrap away all the solder mask from all the copper associated with pins 1, 2, 19, and 20, then add a lot of solder – as much as I can flow onto all the available copper – to create heat escape paths and heat dissipation surfaces. I also dress the overlying flat cable away from the IC, so it no longer thermally insulates it. And I add a strip of heavy copper foil to the top of the IC which overhangs substantially to the side opposite the battery, to provide another heat dissipation path.

    It takes surgical skill and devotion to do a thoroughly good job. (And that’s just not possible without organic flux, no matter how skilled and precise you are.) But the reward is a genuinely reliable repair.

    In my case, both of my two iBook G4’s needed the power converter resoldering job, the first, which is under my fingers now, because the joints had failed outright, and the second because they were in the process of failing. The first also required a hard drive replacement – it now sports a 160 GB drive from Applied Times (, a local consumer electronics store here in Miyazaki, Nihon.

    But the second iBook G4 has a more sinister problem, possibly a ball grid array solder joint failure under one of the large ICs. Possibly the G4 processor, or the big IC next to it (maybe the GPU, I don’t recall now). That iBook G4 remains disassembled, awaiting further attention back home in Oregon. Maybe I’ll ship the motherboard to Superior Reball and Rework which Simon described in his 6 March 2009 post above – that looks like a very good way to resolve the problem.

    But the first one, under my fingers now, running at 40, 39, and 42 °C respectively, has been rock solid – it runs like a champ, and I have full confidence in its reliability. The fan is noisy. But that doesn’t seem to bother me – I’ve just grown accustomed to it.

    When the iBook G4’s fan is run rationally, it’s a terrific system (but unusually difficult to open for service). But when its fan is run as the Mac OS instructs, it’s a very short lived toaster oven. Which is extremely wasteful. And stupid. And sad…

    If for whatever reason any of you prefer to sell your iBook G4 rather than repair it, I might be interested. Maybe… If so, please flag me at Bruce at my domain

    Regards, Bruce

  66. peter says:

    Quick way to do this job. I made a mess re-soldering the pins and started to mop it up using solder wick. After the mop up all pins were shiny and neatly resoldered on one side, so I flooded the pins on the other side and mopped that up as well. This method gives a good heating to all the pins to get rid of cracked solder joints and also provides a fresh thin layer of solder on top. Quick and works well, brought it back to life. Also you dont need a tiny tip, you can use a normal tip.

  67. Bill says:

    It works! Great fix. Saved a machine. If you aren’t equipped for and experienced in micro soldering, don’t try. As noted above, Instead use the shim method described in the ‘iBook G4 logic board fix at

  68. James says:

    I had a 12″ iBook G4 from 2005, and I got the kernel panic because of the faulty airport/bluetooth module. I removed it, and now the machine is running fine (except for no airport). However, D-Link has drivers for their WUA-1340 USB Wireless adapter, so I have set up that machine to work with wireless internet again.

    I now am using a 14″ iBook G4 from 2004, and last night I got the OTHER problem! I’m going to try to solder the joints tonight, but I solemnly vow that I will NEVER purchase an apple computer again. For this kind of unreliability and poor engineering, I’d rather pay half for a cheap-o PC!

    • admin says:

      Keep in mind James that (a) your computer is now six years old and (b) it is an iBook which was the bottom of the range cheap computer designed to compete with cheaper model PCs!

      So if you want a long-term reliable Mac you really need to go for a PowerBook, (MacBook Pro). For an iBook ( or MacBook) six years is actually a pretty good run.

  69. hexdiy says:

    Really great tip! A friend of mine had a machine with the black screen syndrome described here, and he suspected a faulty LCD cable. Seemed odd to me, because I expect that to mean a white or distorted screen. And the backlighting was obviously working as well. Only beta testing right now, but all indications are the 12″ iBook on my table right now is in perfect working order after resoldering pins 1 and 28! I should have googled before spending hours testing and prying through the magnifying glass. Thumbs up and recycle the planet!
    Hexdiy, Belgium.

  70. Herbert Gramsch says:

    I just resoldered the chip on my ibook G4 800 MHz the second time, the last time i repaired it in the same manner half a year ago. Next time I’ll try the trick with the heat sink like shown above…

    Much cheaper than a new computer…

    Herbert Gramsch
    Dogern, Germany

  71. coucke says:

    What’s the solution for A G3 iBoook (700mhz/128MB/20GB/Combo – Ethernet/2002 Apple with the same problem? – – – – – D24 chip found but no result.

    • cat says:

      That’s the one I have. I don’t know if it had exactly the same problem as these, but they were part of the recall/extended warranty for the failure of the logic board a few years back. When mine went, it sounded just like here — graphics going nutty across the center of the screen, then blank. Apple fixed it for free, since it was part of the recall, but for all I know this might have been the problem. I had to have them fix it twice, btw (second time they replaced the video cable as well, though I’m not sure it was necessary).

      Oh, and the fan never ran. Fried my hard drive after one year. Luckily Apple still honored the logic board warranty even though I replaced the hard drive myself. Kind of shocking, that. Also weird that once I put it back together, the fan did run. I had NEVER heard it before then.

      Worked okay for about three years after that, despite being repaired by an Apple-trained monkey the second time (rerouted my wires wrong through the hinge, which made the display unreliable and killed the built-in mic). Then the hard drive failed — again. Replaced with another. (Worked dandy after that, until I managed to kill it by mistake while fixing the wire routing problem. Still working up the nerve to try to solder it.)

      I have several other macs that have all worked brilliantly. But that one is a big fat lemon. You probably need to replace the logic board; you might be able to find one online. Good luck, anyway. You’ll need it.

  72. Elbistan says:

    I have had this problem with my G4 for quite some time. The soldering worked perfect. Thank you very much.

  73. Susan Crowell says:

    I like my ibook G4 a lot, also some of the data on it, but it exhibited the symptoms described regarding the fan issue. Not starting at first. I could only hear a whir, then it would start up and everything was fine. This was intermittent. It started about two months ago. Two days ago it completely died. I press the power button and nothing. I can’t afford the repair rates nor am I in a place that even services apple products without an hour and a half drive. I don’t want to give up if there is any hope of fixing it. I have no experience with soldering if this ends up being a solution. If I could find someone who was willing to give it a try and if I could translate some of the suggestions here, what level of experience with soldering would this person need? Thanks, quinne.

  74. Foxy says:

    I did the solder fix on by iBook 1.2GHz just over a year ago and it’s still running fine :) I actually bought it from a friend after it had failed (and she had been informed that logic board was finished) but I have saved it :) Just added the G4fancontrol software after reading about it above. Seems like a bit of insurance! I don’t use the iBook much now – about once a week – but would rather it kept going for a few more years.

    It has started to run slower of late though – even after fitting brand new 1Gb ram. I am thinking the HDD may be starting to die – was replaced only 2 years ago I think (by last owner) so not that old, but having read how heat issues may shorten the HDD life too I am thinking may be time to do again. Was considering one of the new Solid State ones (SSD)- as I don’t need to store much data anyway and would appreciate speed and silence (albeit with more fan noise now…) over storage space.

    Anyone put a SSD in an iBook?

  75. Kat says:

    HUGE massive THANKS to you all for this!!!

    Just revived my beloved g4 ibook following these very thorough instructions. One note: my chip is oriented differently on the motherboard, but was able to figure out which chip it is by matching the numbers surrounding it w/ the numbers in the pictures you provided.

    All I did was press on the chip and BOOM!! RESTART!! No solder necessary…will see if this stays, if not, will open it up again and solder.

    Before the final crash, I was reviving the computer by squeezing the battery, and baffled why that made a difference. Now I understand I was squeezing the motherboard through the case.

    Thanks again!

  76. Felisha says:

    How do I open the back of my mac I book to get it to looklike that

  77. Evan says:

    Thank you for putting this together. I ended up using one of the other quick fixes (spacer), but I’d never have found out without this how to. My mid-2005 iBook G4 is still going strong 5 years on thanks to your careful research!

  78. Derek says:

    I found this site while trying to repair my G4 and I am so glad I did. This fixed it right up, Thanks!

  79. rcran says:

    Worked for me! Thanks very much!

  80. bayyagg says:

    Am now holding my G4!
    i’ll try this solution and will come back if it is successfull!

    Thank you very much for the info!
    I was about to rip it apart and sell it by PARTS!

  81. Steve A says:

    Thanks for the fix. I was working on a Logo Design when my 933mhz IbookG4, crashed. Since I didn’t feel comfortable soldering the chip I siliconed a piece of rubber on the back. I was able to save my files and my computer is working again.
    I plan to have someone do the permanent solder fix for me soon.

  82. Alastair says:

    Help! – I’m trying to do this fix on an iBook G4 1.33 but the motherboard is slightly different and I can’t work out which is the troublesome chip. Anybody know ?

  83. dominic says:

    Anyone want to purchase mine. I was told at the mac store that this was the problem as noted here in this article. I have replaced it and don’t know what to do with the old one

  84. Chris says:


    This kind of problem has been a pet peeve of mine for years. In the manufacturing of electronic circuit boards, the soldering process happens on a conveyor belt and is known as “wave soldering”. Within this process, the amount of solder can actually be dialed in on a control panel. Unfortunately, I assume it must be to cut some costs or something, but the amount of solder that gets on the connections are NEVER really enough to actually sustain a good contact for the long term.

    All companies care about is that the product lasts long enough so that the warranty won’t expire before the connection breaks down. In other words, it is PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE and the top people of the company do these things on purpose so that you have to throw away your old unit to buy a new one later so that the company can continue to sell more product and you have to constantly buy buy buy making them rich rich rich.

    The statement of them “never heard of that before” is a crock of crap. They are bold-faced lying to you to your face! It should be an insult to your intelligence if a company rep tell you that. Call them on it and demand they fix it. You don’t have to put up with it. You don”t have to fix their mess that they designed in on purpose to rob you of having a long lasting product. If you complain hard enough to the right people, they will do it. Make them do it, it is their responsibility.

  85. Pat says:

    WOW! Thank you so much, I did exactly as said and it worked like a charm. Hopefully it will last.

  86. Steve says:

    I have similar issues with my 12″ iBook.
    It doesn’t like to be touched, because when you set it down on a counter while it’s on it will Kernal Panic.

    Anyone have a fix for the 12-inch iBook 1.33GHz?

  87. WdLvW says:

    Thanks greatly for documenting this issue and it’s cure, for I never would have found it myself, my chip didn’t really look that bad to a visual inspection or a poke, but retouching the last four pins on each side: 1-4, 25-28 has returned my 800Mhz iBook G4 A1054 from black-screen, no chime, full fan basket case to the reliable machine it had been up until a month ago.

    Kudos, and to those who have documented the case cracking proceedure as well.

  88. Aerien says:

    Okay, had an apple store close by. Went there with my trusty companion (ibook G4, 1.33 GHz) who started having weird issues: vertical lines on the display in white, grey and black; long booting times with a black screen at first, then the spinning wheel on grey background, then not finding the HDD and in the end freezing on a blue background. I did manage to get it to boot it in safe mode once, but now it just refuses to work. So the nice apple guy at the apple store took a look at it and told me that the logic board pretty much snuffed it and my baby is DOA. He told me to sell it on ebay as they no longer have parts and repair is not an option.

    Now before I do that…. is my problem also connected to the faulty soldering or is it something else completely? I just want to know whether I should just go ahead and take out the HDD and sell the carcass, or if it is worth the trouble of finding someone to solder it for me…
    Had I known about the too high temperature and the fan settings before, I might have saved my ibook. I was always wondering why the casing got so hot left of the track pad… now I know….

  89. Henry says:

    It seems that my Powerbook G4 1.67 got exactly the same symptoms, but I couldn’t find the chip you’ve indicated.
    I’m already using MBP for a long time, but still missing the old reliable PowerPC, want to make it live again.
    Really helpful topic, I’ve searched for the solution for half year and this is the nearest one I’ve found.

  90. JohnHovan says:


    I just finished repairing a g4 with problem you describe. It is very difficult to solder on that little chip. I was able to place a jumper wire from the power pin over to the red fan pin. They are both 5v. After this repair, I continued to have issues. I had to lay a solder iron on the remaining pins and reflow them without trying to re-solder them. Be sure that you do not have any solder on your iron when you try this.


  91. Rebecca says:

    OMG this totally WORKED!!!!!

    I am the second owner of my ibook (1.2ghz 14”, late 2003). Last week it died, and I was quoted a $500 repair after paying for the $45 diagnosis. Thank goodness for this website, I took it to a tv repair shop after I disassembled it to show the logic board, and sure enough the guy saw both pin 1 and 28 broken. He soldered it, and 30 minutes and $15 later, it works like a charm!! I’ve downloaded the fan app, yes my computer is noisier, but it works!!! Thank you so much for this website, bless all of you for contributing!!!! I love my ibook and can’t stand the keyboards on all the new macs..

    Thank you so much for saving me the price of a new computer!!!!!!

  92. JRVille says:

    I have a G4 ibook A1133 which has a different logic board than that described in this article. Initially, I had kernel panics which I traced to the airport/bluetooth by looking at the (Library/logs/) directory. I removed and re-installed the airport package (you have to remove the keyoboard and top metal shield to do this) and it ran without further kernel panics (which were occurring about 4-10 minutes after turning on the iBook). So I decided to really stress my ibook by running hd decoding with Videolan. After doing this for about 20 minutes the screen turned white with vetical colored bars running through it. Since I had my keyboard and shields removed I could tell the heatsink was very warm, but the fan was not running. (Makes no sense, I know). I turned off the machine and started it again. That was the last time it “worked” Now all it does is turn on with the fan running at full blast. I notice before the fan turns on the HD heads move from parked position (click) and the DVD drive makes a plaintive effort to start. Then the fan kicks in and it’s all over. The voltage regulator described in this article is not on my system. Can someone perhaps suggest a remedy, other than scrapping the book for parts ?

  93. Lizelle says:

    I have a G4 graphite mac (not an ibook) and have developed this curious problem of the machine not starting up again once it has been plugged out. It can be shut down and restarted without any problems as long as the machine is not actually plugged out of the socket. Once it’s been plugged out, the only way to restart it is to heat it up in direct sunlight – then magically it restarts again, once plugged in. The moment it cools down, no go! Does anybody know what the problem may be?

  94. mona says:

    Wow I’m glad I found this blog post! I was just about ready to throw away my G4 ibook and get a new one, but this will save me a lot of money! I’m not too tech savy, but I’ll have to give your instructions a try…

  95. You just saved my old G-4. Many thanks!

  96. john says:

    i have apple ibook G4, i’m wondering why the ibook screen seem black when i try to start it, the fan also not running????

  97. claudio says:

    Sorry for my bad English
    I have a MacBook Pro 15 “model A1226. With the external monitor is ok. With its display sometimes the pattern is green, it raises the luminance of the green channel, with showers that appear reddish. Then both hot and cold computer returns to normal or stay green for hours. It will be defined here too cold a weld, but where? Thanks if you can give me an answer.
    Claudio Gi from Italy

  98. Ginetto says:

    Solved: I just laied on solder on pin 1 and 28.

    Thanks :)

  99. scotty says:

    I highly recommend this guide and the solder method if you have an ibook that doesn’t seem to turn on. I originally attempted putting a shim in-between the faulty ic and the ibook case and it would work for a couple days then back to the original problem. After tearing my ibook g4 apart several times, I finally went to a hardware store and spent 10 dollars on a soldering iron and soldered the first 3 legs of the faulty ic. Currently my ibook has been running for a month plus with no signs of trouble. So don’t throw away your old ibook G4s until you try this!

  100. Ryan says:

    Well, there has to be someone that screws things up…I skimmed the blog about a month or so ago. I was so excited to try to fix this thing that I missed the part about not needing to add more solder. I ended up getting solder all over the pins on the chip and essentially connecting about 3 or 4 of them. I tired to melt it off and ended up mangling the poor little legs on one of the sides. I was able to learn from my mistake and do a good job on the other side (pin 24). unfortunately it was too late as the other side was a mess.

    The good news is I bought a new logic board on e bay for 40 bucks. it was over stock from when these computers first came out. Since the computer is now a dinosaur it was affordable. i had a good time with the project anyways.

    the moral: be very careful with the solder and soldering gun. those pins are TINY!

  101. John H says:

    Thanks for this excellent guide. A friend gave me a broken G4 and using this tutorial I was able to fix it. Thanks again.

  102. bala says:

    Thanks for this guide! The G4 is working again!

  103. Thanks! I actually managed to fix my G4 it with this guide! Brilliant post! :-)

  104. Howard W. says:

    Got a G4 out of a free box at a sale cause it didnt work. This was the fix. Thanks for the free laptop man..GREAT JOB

  105. Alguien says:

    Do you know how to fix my problem? i ll explain you:

    i bought a ibook g3 384ram 700mhz and it had the thing of the display problem, i solved this problem and the ibook was “ok” in like 2 weeks, so i was copyng some songs from my usb to the computer, and then it just stays stuck copyng, and i fored it turned off.

    Then just stays on the mac logo and 1 week later just dont turn on, nothing, not fan sound, nothing, do you have any solution of this? i appretiate this, i just need to repair it to give to my little cousin for a gift…

    thank you for your atention :)

  106. jbl says:

    This chip repair went much quicker and more easily than I expected and gave my daughter’s G4 laptop a new life. Total investment was about $8 for a fine tipped soldering iron at Radio Shack. Thanks for the great documentation and advice.

  107. David W says:

    Do you know which chip it is that i need to solder for the iBook G4 14″ 1.42 Ghz logic board?? or how do i go about working it out?

  108. BHW says:

    I think I killed it… It was a freebie but still a shame. Now: the startup sound plays, the Apple screen displays but remains on the mini-spinning spoke-wheel anim as if it can’t find…something. The hard drive? Any clues?

  109. BHW says:

    And… we’re back live…
    I inserted the system restore/os cd and then it started working again. On removal of the CD it now turns on (and off) and boots-up as normal. Good news. What just happened??

  110. Bill says:

    Nothing to it, the hardest part was taking the case apart but it’s not bad if you’ve ever messed around with this stuff before.. patience, patience, oh, and I used a jewelers loop eyepiece to see with.

  111. Rob says:

    Thank you!!! My old iBook G4 has been on a side of my desk for 8 months. This morning I decided to fix it up and I found this guide. Now, by pressing the back in the middle, it starts up again!
    I need some tools and all it’ll be fine … I guess.

  112. Hexdiy says:

    Great research, superb tutorial, Wayne, thank you so much! Should have written so when I did a repair thanks to it, but I let this slip…
    Similar syndrome came up on a local Apple forum (, So I looked the bookmark over before posting a link. Pity you do not write in Dutch as well!
    As to the fix: with my machine the issue came back, so I have to perform the same trick. I only resoldered 2 pins at the time & with ROHs compliant solder, so either I performed poorly or the stresspoint on those pins is a very severe one. Moreover I do not dare to apply better fluxing PbSn solder to what seems to be a ROHs compliant motherboard, although I hear & read opposing comments on this.
    Once broadcasted on the forum, I”ll keep you posted if more of these cases are (still) being overhauled thanks to your instructions!
    I think I already have at least 3 cases tracked down already.

  113. Als says:

    Have a MacBook A1211 with a similar problem. Runs fine when just closed and reopened for use. But reboot is another issue. The case needs to be twisted/flexed to allow the PS to work properly, or I get full fan, no displ.
    Must flex during initial boot call of pwr sw or within 1sec to work. Getting harder to accomplish. Looking into the cold solder joint of the chip. Lest you have another experience.

  114. Phillip Minor says:

    My 2004 ibook screen freezes but does not go blank. It does this after about 5 minutes. Would this be the same chip? I have tried several times with a soldiering iron. Still happens…

  115. Ewan says:

    I took my laptop apart today to attempt this. With the bottom plate off, but not the heat shield, I attempted to start the computer to see if the repair had worked. I saw a spark shoot from the aluminum frame to the heat shield. Now the AC adapter no longer glows and the computer isn’t responding. What have I done and can it be fixed?

    Thanks to all in advance.

  116. Dharma says:

    I dismatle my whole g4 for no reason while is was apart it was still able to power up, I press on the chip restart it it came right on….thanks a mill bud you rock

  117. Kevin says:

    I had an professional look at the repair and solder the pins that needed doing, It worked for around 40minutes, So it must still either be shorting out or the chip is no good, I am thinking about getting the whole chip replaced, Can you inform me where I could get the chip from! Thank You!

  118. marc says:

    here’s a tutorial to overcome the hardest part. opening the lower case

    now that I have it opened I can’t SEE any fault on the chip, so I’ll just get a small soldering iron and heat things up. and hoping I’m guessing right it’s the chip under the DC cable.

  119. marc says:

    I guessed right :) ibook is running again! as for the solder: bought a 15 watts solder with the smallest tip available (had to buy a replacement tip because the solder came with the next bigger one). be sure to also get some solder grease! and in case you never soldered sth, try it out with some cables and stuff ;) good luck!

  120. Francesco says:

    Hello this is a fine tute,
    My ibook began to stop charging a few weeks back, at first I thought it was the battery, so brought a new one, this was fully charged when recieved and the ibook came to life, worked fine, but upon discharge I couldn’t charge it back up.
    Tested with the power cord alone, didn’t switch on, which it should as I have done so in the past, brought a new charger, still nothing, didn’t charge the new battery. The light of the charger comes on as green when the battery is in and orange when battery is out.

    Changed DC inboard, same issue, charger green when battery is in orange when out and not switching on.
    Could it be the battery connector? I don’t think its logic board as the computer functioned with the fully charged battery or am I wrong?
    If it is the logic board, which components control the power management?

    Any pointers would be helpful

  121. cheryl says:

    I am not an experienced solderer and I am now working on the ibook I fixed! very good instructions-the hard part is seeing what you are doing-you just have to be as accurate as possible and have faith!

  122. Tom P says:


    I chose the soldering route. One thing I did was to sharpen up my soldering iron tip to get a very fine point, let it get super hot add the smallest bit of solder then a steady hand, plenty light and magnifying glass. It was a tense moment when switching it on again but it worked!

    I can’t thank you enough

  123. Tim says:

    Well, it proved the fault, but didn’t boot next time I tried, so I did the solder with a normal soldering iron lightly tinned on one corner, holding the solder there as the iron got hot and puling it off as soon as any got on the iron. held it to the legs for about 5 secs, then cleaned off any residual on the chiplegs with a fine needle and magnifying glass to ensure no short between those first two pins. Perfect, works fine..8)

  124. Henry says:

    For this kind of soldering you don’t need to add tin, but rather use a small amount of soldering flux (liquid, gel, or no-clean flux), since the main problem when re-soldering an SMD component is the oxidizing of the non-leaded tin due to the high temperature of the solder tip. The soldering flux prevents such oxidization, thus avoiding the need for adding new tin (also avoiding the risk of short circuits between the ic legs).

  125. Troy says:

    I only have a high heat soldering iron so decided not to risk it. Rather, i rolled some pieces of electrical tape, made a sticky little pad that creates pressure inside the case and taped it to the chip. i then shut the case and it worked. been working for some time without any problems.

  126. Eric says:


    Thank you for sharing on how to fix broken G4 iBook logic board.. really helpful..

  127. Ember says:

    on test for a few hours now and all working! YAY!

  128. Onno says:


  129. bill says:

    I used the electrical tape trick and it is now working after setting under the bed for two years, now I have a great
    garage computer. thanks guys

    • Elijah says:

      I also have an iBook G4 that was effected about a year or so after I got it took it to apple to see what was wrong and they said I needed a new logic board so instead of doing that I bout a 15″ MacBook Pro late 2006 and just put my iBook away in storage. I recently moved and thought that maybe other ppl had similar issues with their iBooks. So I found that they did since I don’t know how to solder or own a soldering device I was wondering if you could tell me about the electrical tape you used to fix yours I have mine open and ready but need to buy the tape and have the instructions on where to put it if you could please let me know I would be forever grateful there are pics of my parents on the hard drive that I want so bad they both passed 5 years ago this past May. Also if you have any pics showing where the tape goes that would be great I now know what chip it is thanks to the pics on this website.

      Thank You

  130. javier says:

    god bless people like you tankyou so much

  131. soullinker says:

    thanks for the guide :D
    really helped me a lot
    nice post dude :)

  132. Thanks!!!! it’s really usefull for me!

  133. jimmy jimz says:

    Thank you for sharing. This is very helpful :D

  134. this was great
    this help me so much
    big thanks

  135. bill says:

    i used a piece of plastic that broke off of the case and taped it to the chip, screwed the case down tight and it worked for a while, i think i will try the soldering next. How hot should i get the iron, it has adjustable controls.


  136. julien says:

    thanks a lot ! i’ve just repaired an old 14″ powerbook thanks to
    you :) <3

  137. Trudi Gothe says:

    This may not be the best place to ask but, I have been looking for a place to bring my Mac for servicing. Has anyone ever heard of this mac repair service? They’re right in West Los Angeles, which is not too far from my home. It’s called – Mac Repair Los Angeles, 11322 Santa Monica Blvd, Ste B Los Angeles, CA 90025 (310) 966-9099.

  138. Emeo says:

    Yes, I just performed the soldering minutes ago and it WORKED on my iBook G4 11″ 1.3 ghz. A week ago I had black & white stripes all over the screen BUT now is fixed. : )

    However it is already my 2nd attempt. My 1st attempt was 2 years ago on my iBook G4 14″ 900mhz. I did tried to put extra solder on the pin and like people mentioned above, I messed up the pins.

    So my advice would be to first put flux on those pins that you are going to solder. Then NO NEED to put extra solder. Just press the solder tip onto the pins and let it melt the existing solder on the pins. If done successfully, the solder on the pins will become shinier.

    My equipment: Aoyou digital solder
    Temperature: 450 Degree

    Good luck!

  139. Saskia says:

    Hi! My iBook G4 freezees right when I turn it on. I get the spinning wheel but it never fully starts. Any solutions???

    Did I say Thanks?

  140. garison says:

    I have my little laptop again!
    thank you

  141. Hunter says:

    I use g4fancontrol. It is free and works great after finding the right code in terminal to use. “” is the site.

  142. Lorraine says:

    a good few years ago I purchased an ibook g4, 14″ (I think. It was the larger). It was a great laptop. Then one day some water from a spilled glass fell near the power inlet. A slight fizzle occurred. I turned it on it’s side and attended to the damage. Needless to say the power cord (and two other power cords) does not boot the machine. However, the laptop was still perfect and ran on the battery (charged by a secondary laptop). It has sat idle for a few years. I am wondering if it is possible to repair the machine where it can use the power cord again? Opened the machine and there doesn’t appear to be any damage. No burn marks. Could it be a simple fix?

    • jim says:

      there is no simple fixes on an ibook…..but if you have the time and the patience, you can fix it. you will likely need to buy an new input plug and the wire that goes from it to the motherboard …. or i saw a video of a guy that just solders on a new plug onto the existing mini circuit board and wire and that worked, too. or does one of your chargers have the tip missing off the headphone style plug in the middle? They come off a lot and it happens when you are unplugging your power charger and the tip stays stuck inside the power input (female) receiver. it stays stuck in your laptop and does not allow your computer to charge. Many iBook/Powerbook owners have lost their minds and their ability to charge their mac’s after viciously digging out that little tip, lol. The smart owners sent their computers back to apple to fix this ….. but there is great trick to remove it yourself . You gotta get a magnifying gl;as, a flashlight or some kind of lightsource and a pin or some kind of pokey stick and get that tip aligned inside so it is sitting the way it would be if had not come free from the charger and was still attached. the small pin that fits into the rest of the headphone plug should be facing outward. then you will need the inside of a Bic Pen ( the ink tube) and Super Glue ( don’t stick your fingers together ). the tip will fit perfectly snug into the end of the ink tube …. just put a drop of Krazy Glue on the end of the ink tube and press it firmly into your laptop and onto the stranded charger tip. Leave for 5 or 10 minutes to dry and then firmly yank that nasty little pain in the butt out of your Mac.

      It will now charge once again, if you have another charger that has not lost it’s tip.

      Best of Luck!

  143. This problem or similar does manifest on the uni body power books. …

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